a lonely place
its back, yes its back in black
All the wack tourist literature goes on about the shades of green. But it's kind of true. I'd seen this place on a map and thought there should be a super-sheltered little left. It was a long drive and we got totally skunked by the variables, but on the way home stumbled across a little gem of a slab.
This is where I started surfing, in Suffolk. To get this big needs an insane windswell driven down the east coast. There would be places further north absolutely going off on this swell. It's hard to tell from the picture but it was actually snowing pretty hard and the lefts were running down the bank for a good way. This place brings back so many memories of being a surf-stoked grommet in a totally surfless environment. It makes me think of being 12 in the back of a Volvo estate, looking at the wind hitting the trees on the way to the beach and giving each one a ritual significance. Like: 'if that one is blowing like that, there'll be waves.' There almost never were, it was pretty frustrating, but I still look at the trees when I get back there now and think the same thing.
A few years ago I was lucky enough to watch Vashti Bunyan play and talk about her life. My mum knew Vashti a little bit in the 70s and said she was 'always singing.' After she had given a talk, part of which described moving to the Hebrides in a horse and cart, I talked with her to see if she remembered my mum, and she did. Her music is really beautiful and her comeback story is incredible.
Board swap and community market in St Merryn Hall, Easter Saturday 11th April. Market runs from 10-1 this time. The last board swap was cool with all manner of galleons laid on the grass and some buying, swapping and selling of many things surf-related. The market should be really special this time as well.